Lot 28
Yves Saint Laurent Modern Empress Runway c. 1977
Dating from the 1970s–1980s, this striking red lacquered comb powerfully embodies Yves Saint Laurent's vision of the Modern Empress.
While its form draws inspiration from traditional Spanish combs, Yves Saint Laurent incorporated such pieces into his late-1970s collections to endow his silhouettes with an imperial, theatrical presence. Worn high in the hair, these sculptural accessories elevated the model's stature, transforming the body into a commanding, sovereign figure.
The vivid red lacquer, enriched with gilded detailing and cutwork, directly recalls the Coromandel lacquer screens avidly collected by Yves Saint Laurent. This opulent and refined aesthetic permeated several of his most important collections.
Yves Saint Laurent devoted entire collections to the flamenco aesthetic, most notably the iconic Flamenco runway show, in which blazing red emerged as a signature color—symbolizing passion, power, and the very identity of the House. This same intense red would later define the legendary fragrance Opium, launched in 1977.
The comb also resonates with the celebrated "Les Chinoises" collection, presented in July 1977, which offered a dreamlike, theatrical interpretation of Imperial China. Lacquered red, deep black, abundant passementerie, and sculptural headpieces played a central role in this collection's visual language.
Today, runway pieces from this pivotal 1977 period are regarded as true museum-quality works. Produced in extremely limited quantities, often exclusively for haute couture clients, they have become exceptionally rare and highly sought after by collectors.
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Daté des années 1970–1980, ce peigne spectaculaire en laque rouge incarne avec force la vision de l'Impératrice moderne chère à Yves Saint Laurent.
Bien que sa silhouette s'inspire des peignes espagnols traditionnels, YSL l'intègre à ses collections de la fin des années 1970 afin de conférer aux silhouettes une stature impériale, théâtrale et souveraine.
La laque rouge éclatante, rehaussée de dorures sculptées, évoque directement les paravents en laque de Coromandel que Yves Saint Laurent collectionnait passionnément. Cette esthétique, à la fois opulente et raffinée, traverse plusieurs de ses collections majeures.
Yves Saint Laurent a notamment consacré des collections entières à l'univers du flamenco, dont le célèbre Défilé Flamenco, où le rouge incandescent s'impose comme couleur signature de la passion, de la puissance et de la Maison. Ce même rouge iconique habille le flacon du parfum Opium, lancé en 1977, renforçant encore la symbolique de cette teinte emblématique.
Cette pièce dialogue également avec la mythique collection « Les Chinoises », présentée en juillet 1977, qui proposait une vision onirique et théâtrale de la Chine impériale. La laque rouge, le noir profond, l'abondance de passementeries et les accessoires de tête sculpturaux y occupaient une place centrale.
Les pièces de défilé de cette période sont aujourd'hui considérées comme de véritables œuvres muséales. Produites en quantités extrêmement limitées, souvent réservées à une clientèle de haute couture, elles sont devenues d'une rareté exceptionnelle.
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- Dimensions: 42 x 27 cm. (16.53 x 10.63 in.)
- Condition: Excellent vintage condition
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| From: | To: | Increments: |
|---|---|---|
| €0 | €499 | €20 |
| €500 | €999 | €50 |
| €1,000 | €1,999 | €50 |
| €2,000 | €4,999 | €50 |
| €5,000 | €7,999 | €100 |
| €8,000 | €9,999 | €100 |
| €10,000 | €19,999 | €200 |
| €20,000 | €99,999 | €500 |
| €100,000 + | €500 |